This is sort of a “notes to self” list, but if you see something obviously crazy. please feel free to contact me through that little contact form at the right or the comments link below the entry. Ditto for questions, comments, whatever.
Inventory accessories shipped against the invoice. I’m sure there’s no mastic and fairly sure there’s no 12″ screws. Not sure what else hasn’t arrived yet.check!
- Find out how the rest of the accessories will arrive – shipping or with trailer and kit.
- Check in with provider about legalities of trailer – temporary California registration, VIN, title or certificate of origin.
Need to scan all physical receipts and print all digital ones.check!
- Still need weensy screws for paneling, may need to wait until after kit arrives to confirm OSB depth.
- Exterior trim
- Interior trim
- FlexWrap flashing for windows and door.
- Z flashing for the door?
- Need to plan out precise locations of
- Electrical panel
- Battery box with battery
- Propane tank
- Fresh water tank and pump
- Gray water tank
- Rough in the tongue box and whatever services will be housed there
- Finish electrical audit
- Plan electrical layout – may need to wait until PD4045 arrives and I can confirm how many AC breakers it can handle.
- 1 main breaker
- 1 breaker to converter
- How many branch circuits?
- Find out how to add marker lamps to trailer electric from TV
- Order marker lamps per Federal Lighting Equipment Location Requirements
- Items 1-4a
- Items 6-8
- Wiring for same
- Borrow a fish rod set. It doesn’t have to glow in the dark.
- Borrow a multimeter.
- Obtain electrical items:
- Heavy gauge wire for mains and battery
- #14 Romex for 12v lights, USB power, and water pump
- #12 Romex for outlets and fan.
- 12v lights
- Switches, if not mounted on lights
- USB power outlets
- Switch for water pump
- GFCI AC power outlets
- Boxes for switches and outlets
- Breakers, mostly tandem ones
Surge protector with voltage protectioncheck! Polarity/voltage testercheck!
- Hole saws – best to borrow:
- Already have 4″ hole saw coming
- 1 1/8″ or 1 3/16″ drill bit or hole saw to make the hole for USB sockets
- 2 7/8″ hole saw for power inlet
- Arrange for electrical inspection.
- Special flashing for the top edges of the end fascia boards, possibly also side fascia
- The wheel wells are a location for thermal bridging, as well as standing water seepage from the outside. What to do?
- Revisit the water heater question.
- Figure out water inlets.
- Rough in switch and wiring for water pump.
I am not using nails anywhere I can use screws. This is meant to be a highly mobile structure and I’ve already seen in others how nails and staples wiggle loose over time. Not having it.
Would really rather hold off on plumbing, both water and gas, until after Jamboree in August. If so, I need to prep areas and hold the space for the items. I may lay the wiring for the water pump but keep it capped off. If it’s okay to install gas on-demand water heater in the tongue box, I’ll reserve space for it. Partially, that depends on what else is going into the tongue box. Some things don’t play well together.
What prompted me to accelerate my electrical plans?
- I saved a lot of money on siding, which freed up funds to do it sooner.
- With SIPs, it’s a lot easier to get the electric in before siding and paneling go on. The chases have to be sealed. To install electric around a corner, a 4-inch access hole has to be created, which then needs to get closed again – there’s a dance of dependencies.
- Installing a ventilation fan requires penetrating a wall – again easier without the paneling and siding. SIPs are essentially airtight, so the fan is a requirement, both for oxygenation and moisture removal. With the fan comes the electricity to run it.